Menswear Ralph Lauren in Fall 2020
The jewel in the crown of Ralph Lauren’s menswear collection, Purple Label turns 25 this year, and it will be as chic as ever. Encouraged by British high society (a personal favorite of Mr. Lauren’s), it has broadened its range to suit modern attitudes without abandoning old-fashioned elegance. “I never doubted about ant and I have always believed in the art of fine tailoring,” Lauren wrote. I wanted fit and structural integrity, old world craftsmanship, but to feel soft, natural, flexible and cozy.”
At the collection’s core, a reissue of a series of ’90s tailored looks inspired by Lauren’s personal suiting spoke of his eternal love for a broad-shouldered, wide-lapel, nipped-waisted silhouette, crafted from valuable Italian or English fabrics. “They look completely the way he would wear and style them,” said the equally dapper John Wrazej, executive vice president, talented director, men’s, pointing out a gorgeous three-piece tone-on-tone suit in an amazing windowpane motif in a dégradé of grays and blacks.
The collection culminated in evening wear, a resplendent, finely cut 1920s white tie tuxedo and an officer’s coat of arms from the Scottish guards. They appeared fit for a formal reception at Downton Abbey—or Buckingham Palace perhaps: The class of a perfect tailored Purple Label evening suit can possibly open any door.
Backstage after the show, Snyder spoke fondly of his youth in Iowa, spent hunting and camping in L.L.Bean apparel. Those memories give Snyder a recurring memory for ralph lauren outlet from bean’s canvas boots and tote bags to the brand’s signature red flannel slimming suit. Where Snyder thrives is in transforming the quotidian into the coveted; his corduroys, intarsia knits, and just-pleated-enough trousers will have formal appeal when they hit stores this fall.
But opening a show with a pointed audio and visual message about existentialism as tied to the splendor of the American landscape can be fraught at this special moment in our climate crisis. For its measure L.L.Bean utilizes recycled polyester in a vast majority of its garmentsis still a chemical compound—and can refurbish its duck boots seemingly ad infinitum.
Finally, Snyder’s beer and snacks aren’t going to be the main things that threaten his Iowan plains—nor are they going to be the most egregious symbols of waste at the fall 2020 shows. Even the environmental effect of his production will be compared to other brands’ practices. But as the flagship designer with the greatest profile supporters at the act formerly known as New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Snyder had a chance to take a big stand for nature—particularly considering the message of his collection was celebrating the ways man can engage with his environment. Yes, Snyder is a critical role model, but he is a natural leader. He is a born pragmatist, as evidenced by the way his clothes blend high fashion instincts with casual, practical sensibilities
Function has been at the crux of designer Neil Grotzinger’s work from his earliest collections. There are ways he subverts it, and there are ways he USES it shamefully. But tonight’s show was less about the perverse play of function, ralph lauren outlet online, and sexuality that ripples through a Nihl experience and more about dysfunction as the widest concept. His most relied-on fastenings—zippers, laces, hooks and eyes—were rendered useless, cut into tiny strips on short-sleeve tees. His long braces had been turned into pieces of fabric, with straps like suspenders, tied around the model’s shoulders.
The impetus for this change was a shift in purpose. Whereas Grotzinger had looked to undermine traditional notions of masculinity, here he desired to send up all things feminine. So there were models in high heels, floral accoutrements, and even a golden princess to close the show, fitted with a crystal tiara. Concurrent to that play on the feminine was another, more sinister theme: villainy. He name-checked horror films like The Silence of the Lambs, in which Buffalo Bill stitches skin together, making a connection between queer culture and the penchant for campy cinema villains. By turning each look into a character, the designers have ushered in the most diverse team of models yet, each taking their own quirky style to the catwalk. At the end of the presentation, everything looked a bit messy, but that was Grotzinger’s intention. Still, he may have benefited from the editing that showcased his impressive craft and acting skills.